Pomme Café

While Astoria is home to restaurants covering a variety of foods from cultures far and wide, there are not many options for French cuisine. Pomme Café is one such place offering diners their share of tartare and escargots on 38^th Street and  Broadway.  In the summers, Pomme Café opens up its outdoor seating, and from walking past the café, I noticed they offer jazz brunches on weekends. Now that summer is behind us, Pomme’s high curtains are drawn in, adding a mysterious touch into this foreign café.

I visited Pomme Café on a bustling Friday night. Before entering the establishment, I read on a flier outside that at 10:00pm that night there would be live DJ music. I’ve lived in Astoria long enough to know that live DJ music around here is never a good thing. Luckily, it was 7:30pm, meaning I would probably be out of there before the obnoxious clubbing music would commence. Upon entering the doors, I caught my first glimpse of the dimly-lit interior. Dark wood and curtains surrounded the dining area, with a full bar to one side. Benches and pillows create a mini lounge in one corner, while a DJ area is located towards the back. Candles and a soft chandelier give the place a warm, seductive glow. As I turned to the hostess, I noticed she was wearing leggings and a corset. Just then, another female hostess walked by wearing the same thing. I understand this restaurant is banking off the French romantic vibe, but I have been to France, twice, and no females go around dressed like that unless they work in Pigalle. It’s rather pathetic that a restaurant has to flaunt sexy women and not let the food speak for itself. This isn’t Hooters. The men also had a uniform, wearing suspenders to the traditional black pants and white collared shirt combination. I understand the uniforms chosen may be a nod to French culture and keeping up with the French theme, but it is not so much French as it is corny to the customer and objectifying to the women.

back of the cafe

bar area

interior wall

front area

My friend and I started our meal with a cocktail. Pomme offers a variety of wines, beers and signature cocktails, and they did not disappoint. I ordered the French Girl cocktail, which has cassis in it, a popular French blackcurrant liqueur. The place was packed on this Friday night, but as I soon realized, all the patrons were in using their Groupon that was expiring soon, myself included.  To start us off, our waiter brought us warm baguette slices with whipped butter. For our appetizers, my friend and I each got the Pomme Onion Soup Gratin, which is made with three types of onions, and three types of cheese.  The soup was very good, made with a rich beef stock base accenting the sharp cheese and crunchy baguette slices.  Next, we ordered an hors d’oeuvres, picking the Charcuterie, which ended up being a lovely surprise. The spread included dry cured aged meats (salami, prosciutto, and another meat), grapes, cornichons, pickled vegetables (cauliflower, carrots) and a fruit pate which I believe was guava. The aged meats were fresh, and the fruit pate complemented the salty meats perfectly. Our waiter forgot to bring us the grilled baguette that came with the platter, and once he brought it over, explained how the menu was going through some changes.  Apparently since my visit, the menu did change, and with that, an increase in prices.

pomme onion soup gratin

charcuterie

It was while we were waiting for our entrees did the atmosphere of the place change.  The music suddenly went from dim (but still awful) background music to full out blaring club music, thanks to the DJ starting her set an hour and a half early. It was loud, obnoxious, and totally out of place for a seemingly nice restaurant. While this may sound harsh hear me out: when I drop $150 for a nice meal at a nice restaurant (which would have been the price without the Groupon), I expect it to be an enjoyable experience, since it is not a typical, everyday occurrence. I do not expect to hear a techno version of Stairway to Heaven midway through my meal. I did not even think there could be a techno version of Stairway to Heaven. I could not hear my friend across from the table, and it disrupted the quiet, relaxing dinner I had anticipated. As I’ve learned, the majority of Astoria restaurants have a penchant for this type of music, no matter how fancy or laid back the venue.

For my entrée, I had the Seared Sesame Tuna, which, according to the menu, was to be served with French lentils, local farms ratatouille, wasabi cream, and pepper aioli. I love ratatouille and was disappointed to see my tuna on a bed of lentils, with a few measly bits of stewed vegetables mixed in the legume. So all I tasted with the tuna were the lentils.  The tuna itself was a bit bland, as were the lentils. I had no care for the wasabi cream and pepper aioli, which did not add much depth nor flavor, but instead presented a nice visual that some trendy chefs today prefer over substance. My friend ordered the Sweet and Spicy Catfish, described as pan roasted, with wild greens, fall couscous, Canadian ham, and horseradish cream. The catfish did come out with the wild greens and couscous, but there was no Canadian ham in the plate. The dish itself was good; it was cooked well, with just the right amount of sweetness but followed by a rather overwhelmingly spicy kick.  While both entrees were not bad, they were not memorable and did not blow me away or really leave a mark or urge for me to go back.

seared sesame tuna

sweet + spicy catfish

For dessert, my friend and I shared a delicious tres leches cake. The spongy, moist cake was served with fresh fruit, homemade whipped cream, and a chewy coconut wafer. I would not change anything about it.

tres leches

The prices at Pomme Café lean towards the pricey side, with entrees ranging from $16-$26 (this is before the supposed price increase and menu change). I did not think the food, especially the entrees, lived up to the prices.  I initially enjoyed the vibe and décor of the place (that is, before the DJ started playing and minus the corsets that make up the hostess outfits). The space itself is quite beautiful but as I soon realized, aside from the dinner clientele, Pomme heavily caters to the young clubbers of Astoria, who want to be seen and heard at all hours of the night. Walking past Pomme Café later that night, I heard the heavy bass thumbing from across the street. Aside from all the outdoor cafes on 30^th Avenue to be seen at, Pomme Café on Broadway is another one to add to the list.